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Also, there are no golf courses handy: The Tepoztecos, who have been fending off efforts to change the place for at least a century, won astonished applause throughout Mexico in 1995 when they discovered a secret deal to build a vast hotel golf complex nearby, scuttled it and fired the mayor who had made it.

While I summited on behalf of the family, Mary Frances and Grace turned back, explored the neighborhood and took a table at Axitla, a sprawling restaurant surrounded by dense foliage at the foot of the trail. Once I was down the hill again, we consulted the menu, and I got my chance to face the corn smut.

On a corner, the Centro Hol Arcoiris offered tarot readings, massages and a circle of fire. The Taj Mahal shop was selling crystals, fossils, masks, wood carvings and Asian imports. Cafe Isis offered "mokachinos" for about $2, and a dozen stands sold local art.

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The actual pyramid is only about 30 feet high with 13 steps, but the top of the hill payoff is still terrific. Not only can you clamber around on a pre Columbian monument, you get an Imax view of the town and mountains, a vista made dreamy by the shifting mists.

In fact, even with the crystal vendors and detoxifiers here and there, Tepotzl remains traditional and earthy enough to please anyone who would rather not put his chakras in the hands of a stranger. Every few blocks, another church looms or a shrine to Mary peeks from a wall niche. Quetzalc the Aztec feathered serpent god, is said to have been born just a few miles from here.

TO THE PYRAMID

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Just off Avenida Revoluci worshipers and visitors tiptoed into the Parroquia de la Natividad or filed into the hushed cloisters of the adjacent ex convent, or circled back to the Carlos Pellicer Museum of Pre Hispanic Art.

I suppose it's possible to get a 3 year old to the top of this climb; I'm told that, to stay in shape, some local women carry their infants up the slope daily. But after about 20 minutes of the loose stones and the steepening path, we resorted to Plan B.

After the city center, we headed north down the town's real main drag, Avenida del Tepozteco, past more ancient walls, bold colored eateries and modest lodgings. But it's not the lively storefronts or even Nike Long Sleeve Fleece Hoodie

About six blocks north of the town center, the road narrows to a pedestrian path. Then it creeps uphill, into an area that's been designated a national park, toward a smudge of gray atop a high canyon wall. At first the path climbs gently, bordered by ramshackle refreshment stands, the loose stone steps thick with black beetles in the shade.

can be blamed for the tongue twisting propinquity of Ts, Ls and Zs in the names of local towns.

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Almost as common as churches were the bright hued outlets of Tepoznieves("ice cream of the gods"), the Nike Tech Fleece Windbreaker In Grey

You climb about 1,300 feet in 1.2 miles. Sure footed hikers can manage it in a little less than an hour, and at the top they find Tepozteco itself.

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We followed, reminding ourselves that when the church and convent went up in 1580, the Spanish had resided in North America less than 60 years. But there was another fine reminder outside: an arco de seminas, a mural covered arch in front of the church showing an Aztec being baptized by a priest, the whole scene made entirely from colored seeds, grain and other local crops. Every year in early September, the city stages festivities and projects like this to celebrate the arrival of Christianity in the early 1500s.

Tepoztl buildings are older and nobler than Sedona's too, having Nike Hoodie Jacket For Men been assembled from local volcanic stones.

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Then the path gets steeper, your breath gets shorter, and you remember that the floor of this valley is more than 5,000 feet above sea level.

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the brooding La Sant neighborhood church that makes Tepozteco a memorable street.

menu running to scores of whimsically titled flavors. (I recommend Song of Mermaids, with bits of pear, apple and pine nuts.)

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A bit of the divine in Tepoztl

You can still buy pulque, made from fermented agave juice, all over town. Some of the old timers apparently still speak the Aztec language of Nahuatl, which Nike Tracksuit Womens Black And White

And don't be alarmed by the rustling at your feet: At least one family of raccoon like coatimundis dwells on the mountaintop, living well on snacks begged from hikers.

The more we wandered, the more I saw that the Sedona parallel doesn't hold up well. Tepoztl is far greener than any part of Arizona I've ever seen. The surrounding mountains rise so suddenly and lushly, you half suspect that, beneath the ferns and orchids and lichen, they're really just clouds that somehow snagged on a shrub.

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