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Not even the weight of Christopher Biggins could save The Engineer.

M with a clutch of brands including Vintage Inns, Harvester, Ember, Toby, O'Neill's, All Bar One and Browns some 1,600 premises in all is big on food, so the Lescar is now branded tweely as a "traditional alehouse and kitchen."

303 Sharrow Vale Road

Its detractors sneer at "men with beards (and daft hair), middle aged women who think they're cool because they're in the Lescar," arty types and shady types.

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We start with soup of the day (4), although it was hard to tell it was leek and potato, with some dryish bread and butter, and a rather good Kilner jar of potted mackerel (5), helped along with judicious use of horseradish.

How you describe the regulars depends on your point of view. The Lescar's supporters talk of an eclectic mix of students, teachers, social workers, the odd journalist and an occasional judge.

She's happier with her dessert, a chocolate and beetroot brownie with ice cream (4.50), the vegetable adding sweetness and a pleasantly soft texture. It's not such a novelty think carrot cake.

Over on Sharrow Vale Road there were no starry names on the bar top petition and just a half hearted Facebook page which warned darkly the place would be overrun by "wine poofs."

On our night, a Wednesday, the place was full and it was difficult to find a seat. The trade was mainly students, young professionals and Tim. He sips his pint and says the Lescar's people are the same.

At both there was the same result: M won.

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The menu at the Lescar is the same as at the Adelphi Hotel in Leeds or the Fighting Cocks in Birmingham, also in the Metro Professionals brand. So there is a central kitchen behind the menu.

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those puff pastry lids.

My wife's fig, goat's cheese, pecan and roasted squash tart (9) cannot fail to be interesting but I like it more than her.

all right, with two rooms, a central bar, wooden floors, comfy leather banquettes and an entertainments room, home to the Last Laugh comedy club.

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Both were solid, brick built Victorian hostelries (the Lescar dates from the 1880s) with a beer garden and a fiercely loyal clientele devoted to licensees who had bought a lease from pubco giants Mitchells Butlers.

The comedy club is still there, as well as jazz and poetry nights. Only the other week there was a gay wedding reception. Him and him wore pink.

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Nike Dri Fit Tracksuit

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It was certainly true there were times when exotic smells would waft around the beer garden and people would conduct furtive business in corners.

M has given the exterior a lick of paint. There's a new lawn out front with tables and fairylights in the trees. Inside, despite fears, the dcor has been little touched.

The surface of the ginger and cinnamon topping resembles the surface of the moon. "Or pebbledash," says Tim, observing the size of the lumps.

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Yet there are similarities.

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Walls are now painted in a light colour. "They used to be black and on a dull day it was like drinking in a funeral parlour," says Tim, a regular.

I go for the ox cheek pie (9.50), a tender stew of meat cooked in red wine under one of Nike Mens Hoodie Grey

and rhubarb crumble is brought to the table with a warning: "I have got to warn you, the crumble could be hotter than the sun."

The Lescar's fight was in 2007 (it's only just happened at Primrose Hill) but the Sheffield pub got its refurbishment only a few months ago. So what's it like now?

"It is so sweet I could have had it for pudding," she says. Vegetables are lacking so she shares my potato and colcannon to mop up the odd, pink gravy with this dish.

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M has kept its word that it would not change the "individual character of the pub." Its bookshelves are still there although there are fewer books and the Nike Dri Fit Tracksuit copy of Selections from Sir Thomas Urquart of Cromarty has been filched.

It's OK but the residual taste is faintly industrial.

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Main courses include sausage and mash, fish and chips, a couple of burgers, roast duck and a couple of specials, pork belly on bubble and half a roast chicken.

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